Cosmeceuticals

ISBN : 9780443118081

Author : Zoe Diana Draelos

Publisher : Elsevier

Year : 2024

Language : English

Type : Book

Description : Cover image Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology Title page Copyright Contributors Series Preface Preface Dedication Contents List of Videos PART I Defining the Cosmeceutical Realm Chapter 1 The Stratum Corneum: A Functional Barrier for Cosmeceuticals Introduction Functions of the Epidermal Skin Barrier Stratum Corneum Homeostasis and Skin Condition Cosmeceuticals and the Skin Barrier Future Trends Further Reading Chapter 2 Cosmeceutical Formulation Introduction Vehicles Emulsions Serums Balm Products Delivery Systems Additional Formulation Considerations When Developing Cosmeceutical Products Conclusion CHAPTER 3 Evaluating Cosmeceutical Efficacy Introduction Visual, Optical, and Laser-Based Methods Instrumental Methods Related to Tactile Assessments Instrumental Methods Based on Physiologic Processes Instrumental Measurements Based on Physical Properties Conclusion Further Reading PART II Cosmeceutical Actives Chapter 4 Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Retinoids and Vitamin A Introduction Molecular Biology of Retinoids Metabolism of Cutaneously Delivered Retinoids Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 5 Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Vitamin C Introduction Oxidative Stress, Aging Skin, and Vitamin C Vitamin C: Effects on Collagen and Elastin Synthesis Photoprotection by Vitamin C Vitamin C as an Antiinflammatory Vitamin C Inhibits Melanogenesis Delivery and Metabolism of L-Ascorbic Acid and Derivatives Clinical Studies Confirming Antiaging Benefits of Topical Vitamin C Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 6 Cosmeceutical Vitamins: Vitamin B Introduction Niacinamide Panthenol Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 7 Cosmeceutical Lipids for Barrier Repair Introduction Dynamics of Barrier Recovery Clinical Applications of the Cutaneous Stress Test Lipid Composition of Lamellar Membranes Lipid Synthesis and Requirements for the Barrier Equimolar Distribution of the Three Key stratum corneum Lipids Nonphysiologic Lipids: Mechanism of Action Rationale for Barrier Repair Therapy Deployment of Barrier Repair Therapy Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 8 Cosmeceutical Botanicals Introduction Regulatory Product Development Challenges DISCUSSION Conclusion Acknowledgment Further Reading CHAPTER 9 Marine Cosmeceuticals Seawater Sea Mud Algae Extracts Chitin and Chitosan Marine Collagen Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 10 Cosmeceutical Metals Introduction Zinc in Cosmeceutical Products Copper in Cosmeceutical Products Selenium in Cosmeceutical Products Aluminum in Cosmeceutical Products Strontium in Cosmeceutical Products Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 11 Cosmeceutical Moisturizers and Barrier Repair Introduction General Principles of Fundamental Skin Care Physiologic Maintenance of Skin Integrity and Water Content Physiologic Epidermal Barrier Repair Formulating an Effective Moisturizer Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 12 Skin-Lightening Cosmeceuticals Introduction Skin-Lightening Cosmeceuticals Methods to Improve Product Delivery Laser Therapy Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 13 Exfoliation and Antiaging Benefits of AHAs, PHAs, and Bionic Acids Introduction Alpha-Hydroxy Acids Polyhydroxy Acids and Bionic Acids Gluconolactone: The Most Widely Used PHA Lactobionic Acid: A Polyhydroxy Bionic Acid Maltobionic Acid: A Plant-Derived Bionic Acid Increased Synthesis of Dermal Matrix Components by PHAs and Bionics Antiglycation Effects of PHAs and Bionic Acids Use of PHAs and Bionics in the Dermatologist’s Office Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 14 Stem Cell–Derived and Exosome Cosmeceuticals Introduction Types of Stem Cells and Their Source Skin Stem Cells Use of Stem Cells in Cosmetics Human Adipose Stem Cells in Cosmetics Human Embryonic Stem Cells in Cosmetics Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 15 Autologous Growth Factor Cosmeceuticals Introduction Adipose Tissue Source Fibroblast Source Regulations for Use of Autologous Fibroblast Cells and Adipose Tissues Platelet-Rich Plasma FDA Considerations for Platelet-Rich Plasma Conclusion Acknowledgments Further Reading CHAPTER 16 Growth Factors, Cellular Secretome, and Exosomes as Cosmeceuticals Introduction Photodamage Effects on Skin Tissue Biochemical Pathways of Skin Aging Cell Secretome and Growth Factors in Skin Repair Topical Application of Growth Factors Combination: Growth Factors With Antioxidants and Retinoids Sources of Growth Factors and Exosomes Other Delivery Methods Risks Associated With Growth Factors Maintaining Growth Factor Stability Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 17 Peptide Cosmeceuticals Introduction Classes of Peptides in Dermocosmetics Role of Peptides in Protecting the Skin Looking Ahead Conclusion Acknowledgment Further Reading CHAPTER 18 Gene Array and Sequencing Technology in Cosmeceuticals Introduction Basic Principles of Gene Array Analysis Application of Gene Arrays to the Identification and Characterization of Antiaging and Antiinflammatory Bioactive Molecules Gene Arrays and the Search for Aging Genes Application of RNA Sequencing to Study Gene Expression Applications for RNA Sequencing in Dermatology RNA Sequencing to Study Gene Expression in Inflammatory Skin Disease Using RNA Sequencing to Identify Potential Drugs to Treat Skin Disease and Cancer Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 19 Circadian Rhythm Cosmeceuticals Introduction Effect of Circadian Rhythm on Skin Cosmeceutical Strategies for Daytime Skin Support Cosmeceutical Strategies for Nighttime Skin Support Clinical Benefits of a Circadian Rhythm–Based Antioxidant System Conclusion Further Reading Chapter 20 Cannabinoid Cosmeceuticals Introduction Introduction to Cannabinoids and the Endocannabinoid System Introduction to Cannabis-Derived Cosmeceuticals Conclusion Further Reading CHAPTER 21 Cosmeceuticals and Contact Dermatitis Introduction Vitamins Hydroxy Acids Botanicals Fragrances Preservatives Sunscreens Emergent Allergens Patch Testing Conclusion Further Reading Chapter 22 Scar Cosmeceuticals Introduction Pathophysiology of Wound Healing Scar Cosmeceuticals Conclusion Further Reading Chapter 23 Sunscreens Introduction Regulatory Aspects History and Chemistry of Ultraviolet Filters Sun Protection Factor Photostability Dosage and Usage Adverse Events Sunscreen Controversies New Research REFERENCES AND FURTHER READING Chapter 24 Cosmeceutical Cleansers Introduction Why Do We Need a Cleanser? Evolution of Skin Cleansers Types of Skin Cleansers Liquid Cleansing Compositions Skin Types and Cleansing of Specific Skin Types Choosing the Right Type of Facial Cleanser Effect of Skin Cleansers on Skin Barrier Properties Evolution of Cleansers Into the Cosmeceuticals Space and Cleansing of Compromised Skin Future of Skin Cleansing Conclusion Further Reading Chapter 25 Nutraceuticals Introduction α-Lipoic Acid Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10) Genistein Conclusion Further Reading Chapter 26 Hair Growth Cosmeceuticals and Nutraceuticals Introduction Supplements Combination Therapy Conclusion Further Reading PART III The Application of Cosmeceuticals to Dermatologic Practice Chapter 27 Cosmeceuticals for Wrinkles and Fine Lines Chapter 28 Cosmeceuticals for Facial Erythema Chapter 29 Cosmeceuticals for Dyspigmentation Chapter 30 Oily Skin Cosmeceutical Chapter 31 Dry Skin Cosmeceuticals Chapter 32 Acne Cosmeceuticals PART IV Cosmeceutical Myths Chapter 33 Acne Cosmeceutical Myths Introduction Cosmeceuticals Do Not Produce Acne If Labeled Noncomedogenic and Nonacnegenic Mineral Oil Is Comedogenic Sunscreens Produce Acne Vitamin E Capsules Improve the Appearance of Scars Glycolic Acid Application Can Reduce Pore Size A Complex Skin Care Regimen of Multiple Cleansers, Moisturizers, and Ancillary Skin Care Products Is Necessary for Clear Skin Breakouts After the Age of 30 in Females Are Rare Cosmeceuticals Cannot Undergo Reliable Comedogenicity Testing Over-the-Counter Scar Gels Can Aid in Improving Acne Scars Chapter 34 Cosmeceutical Antiaging Myths Introduction Expensive Moisturizers Are More Effective Moisturizers Remove Wrinkles Cosmeceuticals Can Produce Beneficial Effects on Facial Muscles to Improve Skin Tone Bleaching Creams Can Improve Brown Spots Quickly Glycolic Acid Peels Must Hurt to Be Effective Cosmeceuticals Need to Penetrate the Skin Barrier to Work Topical Formulations of Vitamins and Supplements Are Similar to Pills in Effectiveness for Skin Improvement Vitamin-Containing Products Can Reverse Photoaging Retinol in Over-the-Counter Preparations Works Like Prescription Tretinoin A Sunscreen With a Sun Protection Factor Above 15 Does Not Provide Additional Photoprotection Self-Tanning Cosmeceuticals Provide Sun Protection Nanoparticles Increase Antiaging Cosmeceutical Efficacy Scarce Cosmeceutical Ingredients Add Cutaneous Benefit Lip Plumping Cosmeceuticals Increase Lip Size Chapter 35 Botanical Cosmeceutical Myths Introduction Hypoallergenic Botanical Cosmeceuticals Do Not Produce Allergic Reactions Preservative-Free Botanical Cosmeceuticals Produce Fewer Skin Reactions Botanical Cosmeceuticals Are Natural Botanically Derived Fragrances Do Not Cause Allergic Contact Dermatitis Botanical Cosmeceuticals Can Reduce Sebum Production Antiperspirants Contain Chemicals That Are Not Naturally Derived and Are Therefore Damaging to the Sweat Glands Botanicals and Mineral Cosmetics Are Safe and Do Not Cause Acne Face Masks With Botanicals Improve Skin Tone All-Natural Ingredients Are Safer in Skin Care Products Numerous Botanicals in Cosmeceuticals Are Better Cleansers With Ground Botanical Materials Are Good for Deep Cleaning Pores Topical Botanical Cosmeceuticals Minimize Postmenopausal Skin Changes

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